Granada

Granada

Granada On The Cheap! – Budget Activities For My Favorite Andalusian City

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Interior of the Granada Cathedral. Taken by vs1k via Flickr.

When I lived in Granada a few years ago as an exchange student, we were always looking for inexpensive (or even free!) ways to have fun while getting to know the city better at the same time.

Luckily, the south of Spain is generally pretty cheap. The cities are so full of history and interesting stories that you don’t need to spend a lot to see a lot. And when you need refreshment drinks range from one to three Euros and food from three to five on average. Granada is especially great for someone traveling on a budget too! Why? Read on!

Visit the Alhambra Grounds – Free!

Exterior of the Alhambra. Taken by Tony Bowden via Flickr.
Exterior of the Alhambra. Taken by Tony Bowden via Flickr.

Located into the hills surrounding the city, the Alhambra is a Moorish Palace and Fortress that is one of the most famous sites of the city and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tickets to visit the interior and the gardens are 14,00 Euro for adults and I would absolutely recommend going inside, it is worth every cent.

However, what many visitors don’t know is that the area before the ticket point is also really nice! There is a beautiful view of the city below and you can get at least an initial impression of the massiveness of the palace. So just follow signs from the city center to the Alhambra and go as far as your free pass will get you!

Walk through the Albayzin and Sacromonte –Free!

Streets in the Albayzín, Granada. Taken by Nathan Wong via Flickr.
Streets in the Albayzín, Granada. Taken by Nathan Wong via Flickr.

I mentioned in an earlier article all of the cool things that the Albayzin district of Granada has to offer. Head away from the city center on Carrera del Darro and just wander through the winding streets. What I didn’t mention before is that just a little farther is the neighborhood known as Sacromonte, the traditional Gitano section of the city formed by the slopes of the hills. This is a bit more rural, but you can see a more traditional way of life where some of the residents live in the caves built into the hills.

Sample some tapas! –Cheap!

Spanish tapas in San Sebastián. Taken by sanfamedia.com via Flickr.
Spanish tapas in San Sebastián. Taken by sanfamedia.com via Flickr.

Granada is one of the best budget cities to eat and drink in because each drink comes with a free tapa! Not just some chips or olives, either. You can expect anything from a sandwich to a plate of fried fish. In some bars you can even choose your own from a list of many options. One of my favorite areas for great tapas bars is in the center near the Cathedral, but you can absolutely find so many great places all over the city.

Go inside the Granada Cathedral- Cheap!

Interior of the Granada Cathedral. Taken by vs1k via Flickr.
Interior of the Granada Cathedral. Taken by vs1k via Flickr.

No matter what your religious beliefs, to get a full understanding of the history, traditions and culture of Spain, you should start with the church. In most Spanish cities, these are located in the heart of the city center and typically are some of the most ornate, architectural creations. The Granada Cathedral is not the most stunning of the ones I’ve seen in Spain, but nonetheless it is really nice inside and, you guessed it, cheap to enter! Adult’s tickets are 5 euros and students 3,5 euros.

Churros, Chocolate and Sangria at Café Fútbol

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It’s no secret that I absolutely love Granada.

The Alhambra, Albayzin, delicious tapas, beautiful architecture, great university life and its general all-around coolness make it my favorite city on earth. And what is my all-time favorite hangout there? Why Café Fútbol of course!

Who would have thought that three American girls starting a four month journey studying abroad in Granada would be placed just a few blocks from one of the most iconic cafes in the entire city?

Well we were just that lucky, I suppose!

Where is Café Fútbol?

Located at the Plaza Mariana just a block from the Correos (post office) in the city center is Café Fútbol, a three-story restaurant, with a vintage interior that makes you feel like you stepped back into 1970. The waiters (generally older Spanish men) all wear white button downs and don’t think it’s out of the ordinary for one to be smoking a cigarette while they take your order. All part of the charm I suppose.

My First Café Fútbol Experience

My first experience with Café Fútbol was meeting friends for sangria before we had our tour of the Alhambra, the massive Moorish palace Granada is famous for. That may have been a bit of a mistake…

Things are getting rough...
Things are getting rough…

As this was my first extended time period in Europe, I still wasn’t accustomed to living life outside the American norms. In the U.S. sangria is typically really sweet, made with wine, fruit and some juices and it is never very strong. What we didn’t know was that in many places in Spain and definitely at Café Fútbol they also add some sort of liquor, in this case I think it was a brandy.

Mmm, Spanish Sangria! Taken by L. Balois via Flickr.
Mmm, Spanish Sangria! Taken by L. Balois via Flickr.

At only 2 euro-something each, it’s hard to drink just one of their delicious sangrias.

So, naturally, we had two.

And then we were drunk.

The sangrias at Café Fútbol are very strong.

That would have been okay if were just going back to the apartment or out for the night. But instead we were about to begin a multiple hour tour around one of the largest palaces I’ve ever seen, in temperature that was over 30 degrees Celsius! It was rough. But naturally, we now knew where to go for sangria!

Oh, And The Churros Con Chocolate Are Delicious!

I didn’t get to know the real specialty of Café Fútbol until a few weeks later, when our study abroad program invited us all for churros con chocolate (churros with chocolate) at an iconic Granada restaurant. You guessed it- Café Fútbol!

Some delicious churros con chocolate. Taken by Tim Lucas via Flickr.
Some delicious churros con chocolate. Taken by Tim Lucas via Flickr.

Words cannot express how delicious they were. I am dying to go back for more.

It turns out there is a reason the churros and chocolate at Café Fútbol are superb. It began in 1903 as a milk selling business, they moved to the current location in 1910, and over time began to specialize in ice cream and chocolate, thus churros and chocolate seemed to be the obvious next step.

Hanging with friends at Cafe Futbol, Granada.
Hanging with friends at Cafe Futbol, Granada.

Today, you can still choose from a wide selection of tasty looking ice cream dishes as well as typical Spanish meals.

For me, however, nothing will beat sitting out on their outdoor tables in the middle of the plaza on a warm fall day and drinking the best sangria I’ve had in my life with some great friends.

 

Featured image from fraboof via Flickr.

Exploring the Albayzín

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House in the Albayzín neighborhood, Granada. Taken by hasib via Flickr.

Built high up into the southern Spanish city of Granada you will find the Albayzín district- a Moorish settlement famous for narrow, winding streets, small plazas, many churches and beautiful views of the city below and the imposing Alhambra palace.

Bird's eye view of the Albayzín, Granada. Taken by gacabo via Flickr.
Bird’s eye view of the Albayzín, Granada. Taken by gacabo via Flickr.

Origins of the Albayzín

The Albayzín is a one of the most important and interesting sites for any visit to Granada. Dating back from Roman times, the Zirid Monarchs first established their court there during the 11th century, with an encircling citadel wall, with some ruins still visible today.

The origin of the name “Albayzín” or also sometimes written as “Albaicin”, is not exactly clear. Most historians credit the name as meaning “quarter of the people of Baeza”. This refers to when the Moors were driven out of the city of Baeza, near the Spanish city of Jaen in the 13th century by the Christians. They fled to Granada and settled into what is the Albayzín district, which would develop further with a distinct Moorish influence.

After the fall of the Spanish city of Cordoba in 1236 the center of Moorish power was then transferred to Granada, which brought a massive flood of nobles, architects and most importantly, money to the city, which ultimately led to the construction of the ornate Alhambra palace, which sits directly across the hill from the Albayzín quarter.

When the Christians conquered Granada after an 800-year Moorish ruling, they built over the many mosques that were constructed in the Albayzín, which is why you can still see some Moorish features today, such as external cisterns for the ritual washing of the faithful.

What’s the best way to see the Albayzín?

Exploring the Albayzín is best done on foot. You can easily walk there from the Plaza Nueva in the center of Granada in less than a half hour. The coolest part about this district however, is just casually strolling through the maze of small streets and plazas, so I would recommend setting apart at least a few hours. This gives you plenty of time to explore, stop at one (or a few) of the many tapas restaurants or tea houses  that are buried deep into the winding cobblestone streets, visit some of the churches, which are typically open to visitors, and enjoy the Moorish vernacular architecture, which blends with the traditional Andalusian styles.

Streets in the Albayzín, Granada. Taken by Nathan Wong via Flickr.
Streets in the Albayzín, Granada. Taken by Nathan Wong via Flickr.

I loved how many of the homes are designed, with really bright colors and tons of flowers and greenery.

House in the Albayzín neighborhood, Granada. Taken by hasib via Flickr.
House in the Albayzín neighborhood, Granada. Taken by hasib via Flickr.

What many consider the highlight of this district, is the view of the Alhambra and the city below from the Mirador de San Nicolás, located in the Plaza Mirador de San Nicolás, especially at sunset.

View of Granada from the Plaza Mirador de San Nicolás.
View of Granada from the Plaza Mirador de San Nicolás.
View of Alhambra from the Plaza Mirador de San Nicolás.
View of Alhambra from the Plaza Mirador de San Nicolás.

At night, the area also has lots to offer from traditional Flamenco shows in the cuevas (caves) built into the hills to some cool bars or nightclubs.

Flamenco show, Albayzín quarter, Granada.
Flamenco show, Albayzín quarter, Granada.

One famous one for students of the city, especially international ones, is El Camborio, which has a large terrace that has spectacular views of the lights of the Alhambra. Just keep an eye out for pick pockets as this neighborhood can sometimes be known for having some seedy characters lurking!

[UNESCO], [Andalucia]

My favorite small European cities (#5-1)

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View of the harbor from ferry, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.

The list continues…

  1. Hvar, Croatia

The island of Hvar is located off the coast of Dalmatia, Croatia in the Adriatic Sea. Due to this strategic location, it has long been an important area for sailors and traders, which has led to many groups of inhabitants throughout history, dating back to pre-historic times. Today, the city of Hvar is located on the western side of the island. It has a super beachy, relaxed feel and amazing views of the sea. What I especially loved was the architecture!

Hvar city square, Hvar, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Hvar city square, Hvar, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Hvar city harbor, Hvar, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Hvar city harbor, Hvar, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.

 

  1. Split, Croatia

Though Split is the second largest city in Croatia, it still only has about 300,000 inhabitants, which qualifies it as a small city for this list, thank goodness! Split already is super cool because of its location on the Sea and you can absolutely feel the direct connection with the traditional foods and especially the harbor in the city center. What is so special about Split, however, is Diocletian’s Palace, an ancient palace build in the fourth century AD that remains in the center of the city. It is actually more of a fortress, however, as it isn’t covered, but rather protects the other buildings inside. When we were there, there was live music playing in one of the squares with many people dancing and singing along. Really cool!

Inside Diocletian's Palace, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Inside Diocletian’s Palace, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Tower in the peristyle, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Tower in the peristyle, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Tower in the peristyle, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Tower in the peristyle, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Peristyle (central square inside the palace), Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Peristyle (central square inside the palace), Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Harbor at sunset, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Harbor at sunset, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Walking along the harbor, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Walking along the harbor, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
View of the harbor from ferry, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
View of the harbor from ferry, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.

 

  1. Kotor, Montenegro

With a very small population of less than 14,000 inhabitants, Kotor is quant, relaxing and unassuming. Located on the Gulf of Kotor, the city itself has become a popular destination in recent years for tourists by boat who are interested in seeing some of the beautiful scenery that it has to offer. Nestled in between the mountains and the sea, Kotor is a really cool small city to visit especially in the older sections, which date back to the Venetian period. We really enjoyed spending the day just walking around the city and seeing all the interesting old sites.

Harbor by night, Kotor, Montenegro. Taken by Kirstie.
Harbor by night, Kotor, Montenegro. Taken by Kirstie.
Homes up the mountain, Kotor, Montenegro. Taken by Kirstie.
Homes up the mountain, Kotor, Montenegro. Taken by Kirstie.
Clocktower, Kotor, Montenegro. Taken by Kirstie.
Clocktower, Kotor, Montenegro. Taken by Kirstie.
Church in the city center, Kotor, Montenegro. Taken by Kirstie.
Church in the city center, Kotor, Montenegro. Taken by Kirstie.
City view, Kotor, Montenegro. Taken by Kirstie.
City view, Kotor, Montenegro. Taken by Kirstie.

 

  1. Alicante, Spain

It seems I’m obsessed with beach cities, and Alicante is no exception. Located just south of Valencia on the eastern Spanish coast, Alicante is one of my favorite places that I’ve visited. The old city center is just what you would expect from Spain- small, winding streets lined with cafes, restaurants and people playing music, sitting out with friends and simply enjoying life. The prices are low and the food is delicious. Add to it that the main city beach (just a 10 minute walk from the city center) is really beautiful (and clean!) and there’s no way Alicante doesn’t make this list.

Explanada de España, Alicante. Taken by Chilli Head via Flickr.
Explanada de España, Alicante. Taken by Chilli Head via Flickr.
View of the city, Alicante. Taken by Bea y Fredi via Flickr.
View of the city, Alicante. Taken by Bea y Fredi via Flickr.
Streets of Alicante. Taken by Les Haines via Flickr.
Streets of Alicante. Taken by Les Haines via Flickr.
View from our terrace of the main cathedral, Alicante.
View from our terrace of the main cathedral, Alicante.

 

  1. Granada, Spain

Hands down, no exception, Granada is my favorite small city in Europe. Scratch that, my favorite city period. There aren’t many places on earth you can see a Moorish palace and citadel, explore a historic Muslim quarter, visit the Sierra Nevada Mountains OR the Mediterranean Sea in about an hour by car AND eat delicious, inexpensive tapas. With such an eclectic background, Granada has developed with a mix of Spanish and Muslim influence, notable in the foods, fashions and layout of the city. It’s small enough to walk the center by foot and is full of intriguing nooks and crannies so there is always something new to be explored. Plus, the views are AMAZING!

Inside the Alhambra, Granada.
Inside the Alhambra, Granada.
Inside the Alhambra, Granada.
Inside the Alhambra, Granada.
Inside the Alhambra, Granada.
Inside the Alhambra, Granada.
View of Granada
View of Granada
View of Granada from the Alhambra.
View of Granada from the Alhambra.

What are your favorite small European cities?

Beautiful views at the Mirador de San Nicolás

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Nestled high in the Albayzin quarter of the Andalusian city of Granada, the Mirador de San Nicolás offers spectacular views of the city below, the distant Sierra Nevada mountains and most famously the Moorish Palace simply known as the Alhambra.

At one of the highest points of the neighborhood, the Mirador (lookout point) has long been a point of interest for locals and visitors alike. Throughout all hours of the day you can find local artists selling their crafts, bohemian musicians tocando el guitarra (playing the guitar) and people just simply hanging out and enjoying the relaxed atmosphere.

Plaza Mirador de San Nicolás by day, Granada. Taken by Juanjo R via Flickr.
Plaza Mirador de San Nicolás by day, Granada. Taken by Juanjo R via Flickr.

The view is one of the most insane things I’ve ever seen. Just sitting there, having a completely unobstructed view of the Alhambra, once in consideration to be one of the seven wonders of the modern world, is something I simply can’t put into words. To contemplate all of the history that has happened in this palace is incomprehensible, from the control of the Muslim kings, the Spanish emperors and the Catholic monarchs, whom have all called this place home. Plus, its sheer size is a marvel on it’s own. And the best part? You get this view for free!

Mirador de San Nicolás by day, Granada. Taken by Jorge Franganillo via Flickr.
Mirador de San Nicolás by day, Granada. Taken by Jorge Franganillo via Flickr.

The magic of the Mirador, however, comes when the sun begins to set behind the palace. During my time living in Granada, we went up to the Mirador a few times and always the sunset didn’t disappoint. Dark oranges, purple and pink hues blending with the Sierra Nevada made the experience truly unforgettable.

Mirador de San Nicolás at dusk, Granada. Taken by Edgar B. Moreno via Flickr.
Mirador de San Nicolás at dusk, Granada. Taken by Edgar B. Moreno via Flickr.

When you visit Granada (something I definitely recommend), you’ll realize it is actually quite small easy to navigate. Special about the Mirador de San Nicolás is that it is located in the very unique Albayzin quarter of Granada. Traditionally the Muslim quarter, it still retains a huge amount of history. You can easily spend the day walking through the cobblestone streets, admiring the interesting architecture, stopping at local shops, enjoying some delicious tapas, and cap it all off with one of the most beautiful sunset you’ve ever seen! And usually with a little background music as there is almost always someone playing guitar in the plaza.

To reach the Mirador from the center of Granada, there are a few options. The first is walking though the Albayzin by foot, which would take about 20-30 minutes. The next is to take the bus numbers 30 or 32 or you could take a taxi from the city center, which shouldn’t cost more than 5-7 Euros.

As this is a popular tourist spot, you also want to keep an eye out for pickpockets, who regularly take advantage of visitors too distracted by the amazing scenery.

Mirador de San Nicolás at night, Granada. Taken by Juan Lupión via Flickr.
Mirador de San Nicolás at night, Granada. Taken by Juan Lupión via Flickr.

Even after the sun goes down, stay a bit longer. The Alhambra will soon turn on its lights, illuminating in the backdrop of the night sky and you will see just why Granada is so magical, and frankly, one of my favorite places on earth!

Featured image from Jack Zalium via Flickr.

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