Naples

Naples

A Neapolitan Pizza Marathon

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Pizza master at di Matteo.

“When the stars make you drool just like a pasta fazool
That’s amore (That’s amore)
When you dance down the street with a cloud at your feet
You’re in love
When you walk in a dream but you know you’re not
Dreaming seniore
Scuzza me, but you see, back in old Napoli
That’s amore, (amore)
That’s amore” –Dean Martin

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aFSv-tq5GAY

For Dean Martin, amore happens in Naples when “girl meets boy”. For me, amore happened when girl met pizza. Naples, Italy and delicious pizza are essentially synonymous. I mean, really, look it up in the dictionary: “Naples: home more delicious pizza than one could possibly eat on a holiday”.

My Trip To Naples (with lots of Neapolitan Pizza)

Sadly, dictionary, you are wrong. Reprint! In fact, on my two-day holiday in Naples I ate a full pizza (to myself!) at four (no that is not a typo) different pizza restaurants throughout the city. This is not counting the various stops for gelato and pizza-related snacks from around the city. In my defense, pizza in Naples is both incredibly delicious and very inexpensive. What more reason do you need?

Pizza da Michele

What Is The Vera Pizza Association?

When you visit Naples, you can quickly notice that many of the pizza restaurants feature a label outside that says “Vera Pizza Napoletana”. This means that the establishment follows the very specific rules to be able to offer you a true and original Vera Pizza Napoletana according to old Neapolitan pizza masters. This associated was established in 1984 as a response to the spread of fast-food chains and the overuse (and sometimes false advertising) of the phrase Original Neapolitan Pizza.

Vera Pizza sign in Naples.
Vera Pizza sign in Naples.

The association has very strict requirements, in terms of ingredients, preparation and method, which gave us the confirmation that we were eating the real original pizza pie. The rules are as follows:

  • It can only be cooked in a wood burning brick oven.
  • The crust has to be soft, elastic and easy to manipulate, prepared at least 10-15 hours ahead of time for plenty of time to rise.
  • The pizza maker needs at least 2 to 3 years experience before they are considered a “pizzaiolo” or pizza maker.

Where We Ate In Naples…

And now… drumroll please… the places we had the pleasure eating pizza at:

Pizza master at di Matteo.
Neapolitan Pizza maker at di Matteo.

Il Pizzaiolo del Presidente Via dei Tribunali, 120
Ristorante Fresco Via Partenope, 8
Di Matteo Via dei Tribunali, 94
L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele Via Cesare Sersale, 1/3

Pizza master at da Michele.
Margherita Pizza at da Michele.

All of these places absolutely live up to their reputation. We had to wait for over an hour to eat at da Michele, where they only offer two types of options to choose from: pizza margherita and pizza marinara. Even with out the “typical frills” you expect from a pizza place, it was absolutely delicious and would absolutely recommend going. We didn’t have to wait for the other three, which made the experience even better! Sadly, Sorbillo, another highly recommended place was closed for their summer holidays, so keep that in mind.

What Else Can You See In Naples?

The best part about Naples, besides the endless amount of delicious Neapolitan pizza of course, was being able to walk around the city relatively easily. The old city center features narrow passageways barely large enough for a car to pass (we nearly got run over a few times), lots of restaurants and cafes open to the street and just an all-around old world charm. It felt very original and non-touristy and definitely gave us a great impression of what life is like to live in Naples.

The new, modern waterfront area was a great complement to the busy city center. It was really picturesque, with views of Mt. Vesuvius off in the horizon. We spent a lot of time sitting by the waterfront, essentially just waiting till we were just hungry enough to go to another Neapolitan pizza restaurant, watching the locals swim in the bay, the fishermen selling the local catch, making friends with a nice Napolitano (ciao, Piedro!) and enjoying a cold Peroni.

Relaxing with view of Mt. Vesuvius.
Relaxing with view of Mt. Vesuvius.

Overall, Naples was one of my favorite cities and absolutely looking forward to going back.

Five Things I Love About Naples

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Naples harbor at sunset.

It’s been over a year since I’ve traveled to Naples, and I can’t stop thinking about how much I want to go back…

Surely, there must be a reason for this!

1. The Pizza

Margherita Pizza from L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele in Naples.
Margherita Pizza from L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele in Naples.

Obvious choice, I know. Neopolitan pizza is world famous! Though there may have been similar dishes throughout history at other locations, the classic Margherita version was first created on June 11, 1889 by the Neopolitan pizza maker Raffaele Esposito. The story says that he wanted to honor the Queen of Savoy, Magherita of Savoy, with a pizza topped with tomato, mozzarella and basil, the national colors of the Italian flag, later becoming a symbol of the Italian unification.

The people of Naples take great pride in their pizza, developing the Vera Pizza certification that has become a worldwide association.

2. The Sea

Naples harbor at sunset.
Naples harbor at sunset.

Southern Italy is famous for it’s beautiful beaches, and Naples is no exception. While we didn’t end up going to the beach proper, we sat by the harbor, watching the locals swim, relax and, of course, sell the daily fresh catch of shellfish. With a bustling city such as Naples, it can easily feel overwhelming. Mix that with the hot summer heat, and it can be unbearable. Luckily, the sea offers the perfect balance and respite, offering beautiful views and a refreshing place to unwind.

3. The Balance of Old and New City

The core of Naples is essentially divided into two parts: the inner, old city and the more modern harbor area. The more modern harbor area consists of a long promenade lined with cafés, restaurants and small shops. It was a bit more expensive than the inner area, but I suppose you’re paying for the view! You can find people going for a jog, walking their dogs or simply just strolling along hand in hand. I loved both equally and the balance between the two was really unique compared to other places I’ve been.

Walking by the harbor in Naples.
Walking by the harbor in Naples.

The old inner city is like something out of a movie: you’re walking down winding, cobblestone streets, smells of delicious baked goods coming from every direction, laundry hanging between homes and all while dodging Vespas zooming past! I could have spent hours just walking through the streets, with interesting and cool new things to see behind each corner. Plus, it feels so authentic and lived in.

The old city in Naples. Taken by Jeroen Bennink via Flickr.
The old city in Naples. Taken by Jeroen Bennink via Flickr.

4. It’s So Cheap!

Price list Da Michele, Naples. (Even a bit more expensive than most places!)
Price list Da Michele, Naples. (Even a bit more expensive than most places!)

In northern Italy, you could expect to pay 2 euros for a coffee, in Naples, you can expect to pay 3-5 euros for an entire pizza! I was so surprised by truly how inexpensive everything was. It was good for my wallet but terrible for my diet, as the low costs were just an added excuse to eat more pizza (as if I really needed any more motivation!). You can really live like a king on a student’s budget!

5. The Relaxed, Chill Vibes

Hanging out by the harbor in Naples.
Hanging out by the harbor in Naples.

It would be hard to make the argument that Southern Italians don’t know how to truly relax and enjoy the moment. Naples is the perfect example of this! The overall feeling of the city is really calm, no ones in a big hurry (except when they are rushing past you on their scooter of course), and you can absolutely feel it. People gather in the plazas, whether it be for a casual social meet up, an intense game of futbol or perhaps to dance the night away for a local festival. Everywhere we went, it just felt so welcoming!

These were my five favorite things about Naples, though the list could really go on forever! Anything I’m missing?

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