Waterland

Waterland

Biking through Waterland from Amsterdam

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An entire visit to Amsterdam could easily be filled with visits to the many world-famous museums, experiencing the vibrant local nightlife or even just relaxing in the many parks throughout the city. What lies beyond the city borders may surprise you…

Filled with seemingly endless green pastures, magnificent water views, little brick houses and old-world charm, a visit to Waterland is a must-do for anyone visiting Amsterdam. The best part? The region easily accessible from the city, and especially fun by bike!

Located right beside the central station, we chose to rent our bikes with Starbikes. It cost 7 euro per day (9 euro with insurance) for a sturdy bike that suited our trip perfectly. They also provided us with a map of various bike paths depending on what we wanted to see such as the “windmill route” or “water route” and gave us recommendations for their favorite journeys.

The first step is to take the ferry from the central station. It leaves from the same location I noted in the previous article about Amsterdam NDSM, but in this case, we went towards the direction Ijplein, which took about 5 minutes. Upon arrival in Amstedam Noord, it was a little difficult to find the exact bike path we were looking for. We rode along the eastern coast as much as possible, until we finally found route “55”. All of the routes have specific numbers such as “45” and you get from place to place by following the various routes like on a highway.

Once we found our route, we decided to drive along the coastline on an elevated bike route. This wasn’t listed as a designated route, but following advice from our bike rental place that this was the most beautiful, we decided to try it. It was SO windy, and was quite the workout, with the wind pushing against me the whole time. Nevertheless, the scenery was stunning, with blue water to the horizon on your right and endless green pastures with grazing black and white cows, horses and sheep on your left.

Water views along the bike paths in Waterland.
Water views along the bike paths in Waterland.

After visiting the small villages, we decided to take the inland route home. Firstly, it was definitely less windy than the water route, and absolutely as picturesque. Winding through the fields and the charming farmhouses felt like looking through a looking glass to the past. You were close enough to the animals to smell (and not to fear, they did!) but it only added to the feeling of being with nature.

Cows relaxing by a stream along the bike path in Waterland.
Cows relaxing by a stream along the bike path in Waterland.

Overall, it took about an hour and half to bike from the city center to the most northern village of Edam. It was a bit more strenuous than I had originally expected though the route was relatively flat, mostly due to the wind. At the end, it was one of my favorite experiences that I had during my trip to Amsterdam and wouldn’t hesitate to take this day trip again.

Charming villages of Marken, Edam and Volendam

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A day spent exploring the charming farms and scenic natural views found throughout Waterland could be enough. Add to it some stops along the way at the three most famous villages of Marken, Edam and Volendam and you’ve got yourself a seemingly perfect day.

Located within about an hour and half from the city by bike, Marken, Edam and Volendam give the perfect insight into the historical Dutch countryside. Some parts seem to be even frozen in time, equipped with drawbridges and cheese making demonstrations.

The first stop along the way was Marken, a small former island off the coast that is currently home to about 1,800 residents. In earlier times, it was a harbor for whaling and herring fishing, though natural conditions made it virtually abandoned until 1957, when engineers built a causeway to connect the island to the rest of Waterland. Then, it began to be inhabited again, especially with a focus on tourism.

Visiting today, you can see that the village has maintained its unique charm. Formed with the local conditions, especially the temperamental tides, the homes were built in small clusters upon hills otherwise known as werven. You could easily spend a few hours wandering through the small neighborhoods, molded by the fairy-tale like cottages, narrow streets and small, lightly flowing streams.

Typical brands homes. Taken by Jose Maria Barrera via Flickr.
Typical brands homes. Taken by Jose Maria Barrera via Flickr.

One of the locals recommended we eat at the harbor area, which has many restaurants. In retrospect, I would have chosen to eat in a less touristy location, as the only options were relatively expensive (6 euros for a small roll with cheese).

About a 45 min bike ride up the coast we reached the town of Volendam. This was the original location of the harbor of the nearby village of Edam, but in 1357 the residents of Edam built their own harbor through a shorter canal. The old harbor in Volendam was then dammed and filled in for land use, giving it its name “filled dam”. It was even an artist retreat in the 20th century for artists such as Picasso and Renoir.

Promenade in Volendam. Taken by Juan Enrique Gilardi via Flickr.
Promenade in Volendam. Taken by Juan Enrique Gilardi via Flickr.

Visiting Volendam today, it was immediately welcoming. The promenade was lined with souvenir shops, cafes to enjoy local Dutch food and even a huge cheese shop with live demonstrations in cheese making.

After about 20 minutes, however, we realized that this was an absolute tourist trap. Of course not trusting our intuition, we stopped at a waffle shop to get a “traditional Dutch waffle”. Though delicious, it cost 7 euros! For one waffle. I’m not joking. Though Volendam was a really scenic stop, especially situated right on the water, it had a feeling of lacking substance.

Unfortunately, we had to get our bikes back to the shop in time and therefore were unable to visit Edam, which appears to be the real charm of the area and though touristy, gives the visitor a more authentic feel according to recommendations. Plus, Edam is famous for its cheese, typically wrapped in red or yellow wax.

Famous Edam cheese. Taken by Alkan Boudewijn de Beaumont Chaglar via Flickr.
Famous Edam cheese. Taken by Alkan Boudewijn de Beaumont Chaglar via Flickr.

On my next visit to Amsterdam I will definitely be making the effort to take a trip to Edam. I can just picture it now… winding through the cobblestone streets, stopping briefly to savor the delicious cheese or perhaps visit the Edam Museum, a 400 year old residence that gives a glimpse of what old canal homed used to look like.

[Wikipedia: brands], [Wikipedia: Volendam], [Edam Wikipedia], [Rick Steves]

Featured image from Dennis Jarvis via Flickr.

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