Croatia

Croatia

Croatian Plitvice Lakes National Park

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Named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979, the Plitvice Lakes National Park (Nacionalni park Plitvička jezera in Croation) is a spectacular display of how beautiful nature can truly be.

The park itself is one of the oldest in national parks in Southeast Europe and the largest park in Croatia, located in the center of the country, near the border of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Each year, over one million visitors pass through the park to see the collection of lakes, caves and waterfalls. These have been formed over time by the karst landscape, essentially the dissolution of soluble rocks such as limestone, dolomite and gypsum. This creates formations such as sinkholes, caves and underground drainage systems, as you can see at Plitvice.

The 16 surface level lakes, as well as numerous underground lakes are connected together, following the natural flow of the water. They are separated, however by travertine barriers, that have formed as a result of the landscape.

Waterfall at Plitvice Lakes National Park. Taken by Kirstie.
Waterfall at Plitvice Lakes National Park. Taken by Kirstie.

When you visit the park, there are a few things to expect. First, the water may perhaps be the clearest you have ever seen. For example, when I visited there was a fallen tree in the middle of one of the lakes and we could see each individual twig on the branches. It’s absolutely stunning, but you are not allowed to swim in the lakes to preserve their virtue.

Also, expect to see tons of biodiversity. There are many varieties of plants and thick forests as well as a wide array of animal species such as brown bears, wolves, owls and over 125 species of birds. Thankfully, we only saw birds during our visit!

Fallen tree in the water, so clear!
Fallen tree in the water, so clear!

Depending on your level of walkability and time available, there are different paths to follow and various sites to explore such as the upper lakes, lower lakes, Plitvica Stream, Korana River, Šupljara Cave, Karlovci (a relief built on predominantly carbonate rock) and Čorkova Uvala, the large forest situated at an altitude of 860-1028 meters. No matter where you choose to explore, however, levels change very quickly, so bring a good pair of walking shoes and some comfortable clothes.

There is also accommodation available at or close to the park. A list can be found on here. We didn’t stay very close to the park, but instead at a small bed and breakfast about 30 min outside. We took the bus very cheaply (around 2 euros each way) to the park from our apartment. I can’t say what it would be like to stay close to the park, but if there isn’t any accommodation availability for when you want to visit, definitely check out some of the places a little farther out. It was very cheap and we even had a terrace with a beautiful view of the landscape. Our host didn’t speak any English, but that just added to the fun!

The landscape view from our apartment terrace.
The landscape view from our apartment terrace.

Overall, a visit to the Plitvice National Park seemed more like a dream than reality. I was so utterly perfect and tranquil, you felt as though you were in an alternate, magical universe! If you feel like you need a new kind of vacation this summer, definitely give it a try!

[Plitvice Lakes National Park website], [UNESCO], [Wikipedia]

My favorite small European cities (#5-1)

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View of the harbor from ferry, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.

The list continues…

  1. Hvar, Croatia

The island of Hvar is located off the coast of Dalmatia, Croatia in the Adriatic Sea. Due to this strategic location, it has long been an important area for sailors and traders, which has led to many groups of inhabitants throughout history, dating back to pre-historic times. Today, the city of Hvar is located on the western side of the island. It has a super beachy, relaxed feel and amazing views of the sea. What I especially loved was the architecture!

Hvar city square, Hvar, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Hvar city square, Hvar, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Hvar city harbor, Hvar, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Hvar city harbor, Hvar, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.

 

  1. Split, Croatia

Though Split is the second largest city in Croatia, it still only has about 300,000 inhabitants, which qualifies it as a small city for this list, thank goodness! Split already is super cool because of its location on the Sea and you can absolutely feel the direct connection with the traditional foods and especially the harbor in the city center. What is so special about Split, however, is Diocletian’s Palace, an ancient palace build in the fourth century AD that remains in the center of the city. It is actually more of a fortress, however, as it isn’t covered, but rather protects the other buildings inside. When we were there, there was live music playing in one of the squares with many people dancing and singing along. Really cool!

Inside Diocletian's Palace, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Inside Diocletian’s Palace, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Tower in the peristyle, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Tower in the peristyle, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Tower in the peristyle, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Tower in the peristyle, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Peristyle (central square inside the palace), Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Peristyle (central square inside the palace), Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Harbor at sunset, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Harbor at sunset, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Walking along the harbor, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
Walking along the harbor, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
View of the harbor from ferry, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.
View of the harbor from ferry, Split, Croatia. Taken by Kirstie.

 

  1. Kotor, Montenegro

With a very small population of less than 14,000 inhabitants, Kotor is quant, relaxing and unassuming. Located on the Gulf of Kotor, the city itself has become a popular destination in recent years for tourists by boat who are interested in seeing some of the beautiful scenery that it has to offer. Nestled in between the mountains and the sea, Kotor is a really cool small city to visit especially in the older sections, which date back to the Venetian period. We really enjoyed spending the day just walking around the city and seeing all the interesting old sites.

Harbor by night, Kotor, Montenegro. Taken by Kirstie.
Harbor by night, Kotor, Montenegro. Taken by Kirstie.
Homes up the mountain, Kotor, Montenegro. Taken by Kirstie.
Homes up the mountain, Kotor, Montenegro. Taken by Kirstie.
Clocktower, Kotor, Montenegro. Taken by Kirstie.
Clocktower, Kotor, Montenegro. Taken by Kirstie.
Church in the city center, Kotor, Montenegro. Taken by Kirstie.
Church in the city center, Kotor, Montenegro. Taken by Kirstie.
City view, Kotor, Montenegro. Taken by Kirstie.
City view, Kotor, Montenegro. Taken by Kirstie.

 

  1. Alicante, Spain

It seems I’m obsessed with beach cities, and Alicante is no exception. Located just south of Valencia on the eastern Spanish coast, Alicante is one of my favorite places that I’ve visited. The old city center is just what you would expect from Spain- small, winding streets lined with cafes, restaurants and people playing music, sitting out with friends and simply enjoying life. The prices are low and the food is delicious. Add to it that the main city beach (just a 10 minute walk from the city center) is really beautiful (and clean!) and there’s no way Alicante doesn’t make this list.

Explanada de España, Alicante. Taken by Chilli Head via Flickr.
Explanada de España, Alicante. Taken by Chilli Head via Flickr.
View of the city, Alicante. Taken by Bea y Fredi via Flickr.
View of the city, Alicante. Taken by Bea y Fredi via Flickr.
Streets of Alicante. Taken by Les Haines via Flickr.
Streets of Alicante. Taken by Les Haines via Flickr.
View from our terrace of the main cathedral, Alicante.
View from our terrace of the main cathedral, Alicante.

 

  1. Granada, Spain

Hands down, no exception, Granada is my favorite small city in Europe. Scratch that, my favorite city period. There aren’t many places on earth you can see a Moorish palace and citadel, explore a historic Muslim quarter, visit the Sierra Nevada Mountains OR the Mediterranean Sea in about an hour by car AND eat delicious, inexpensive tapas. With such an eclectic background, Granada has developed with a mix of Spanish and Muslim influence, notable in the foods, fashions and layout of the city. It’s small enough to walk the center by foot and is full of intriguing nooks and crannies so there is always something new to be explored. Plus, the views are AMAZING!

Inside the Alhambra, Granada.
Inside the Alhambra, Granada.
Inside the Alhambra, Granada.
Inside the Alhambra, Granada.
Inside the Alhambra, Granada.
Inside the Alhambra, Granada.
View of Granada
View of Granada
View of Granada from the Alhambra.
View of Granada from the Alhambra.

What are your favorite small European cities?

A few days in Zagreb

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The Croatian capital city of Zagreb may not be your first choice destination, especially considering the beautiful beaches on the Adriatic Sea or the historic Renaissance cities such as Dubrovnik, Split or Zadar. You may be surprised to find out, however, that this humble city actually has a lot going on!

The oldest settlement in the current metropolitan area of Zagreb was a Roman town known as Andautonia, now referred to as Šćitarjevo, dates back to the first century AD. The first mention of “Zagreb” however, appears to be from a document dating back to 1134, proving the establishment of Zagreb around 1094. At this time the city was separated into two centers: a smaller, eastern Kaptol, which housed mostly clergy and the Zagreb Cathedral and the larger, western Gradac, which was home to mainly farmers and merchants.

The two centers merged in 1851 under rule of Ban (ruler) Josip Jelačić. In honor of this, the main city square, Ban Jelačić Square, was dedicated to him.

Ban Jelačić Square, Zagreb. Taken by Miroslav Vajdic via Flickr.
Ban Jelačić Square, Zagreb. Taken by Miroslav Vajdic via Flickr.

Though Zagreb is the largest city, with over 1 million inhabitants, as well as cultural, economic, cinematic, sporting and governmental hub of Croatia, is hasn’t received recognition as an attractive tourist site for many years. Due to its central location in the Pannonian Basin, it gives easy access to Central Europe and the Adriatic Coast. After gaining independence from Yugoslavia in 1991, Zagreb was declared the capital of Croatia and has been developing economically, technologically and culturally ever since.

To be completely honest, during our trip to the Balkans we chose to go to Zagreb mostly because the flight was very cheap from our departure location, rather than to visit the city specifically. Looking back, it was definitely a worthwhile stop, with many historical monuments, interesting medieval architecture, delicious food and low prices.

We also happened to be there when Croatia joined the EU in July 2013, so there were tons of festivals and our hostel owner even planned a traditional Croatian barbeque for all of us to enjoy!

When visiting Zagreb, I would recommend spending some time just walking around, enjoying the city and admiring the architecture, especially the historical part of the city to the north of Ban Jelačić Square, composed of the Gornji Grad and Kaptol, a collection of medieval churches, palaces, museums, galleries and government buildings. You can easily walk to this area or take the funicular on the nearly Tomićeva Street. Also, the 13th century St. Marks Church was really cool!

St. Mark's Church, Zagreb. Taken by Kirstie.
St. Mark’s Church, Zagreb. Taken by Kirstie.

Also, don’t forget to check out the many museums that Zagreb has to offer, especially my person favorite The Museum of Broken Relationships!

Museum of Broken Relationships, Zagreb.
Museum of Broken Relationships, Zagreb. Taken by Kirstie.

If you are visiting during the summertime, the weather is warm day and night, which brings many festivals and gatherings to the public spaces. While there are many internationally famous artists that visit Zagreb for paid concerts, we happened upon a live band playing a free concert in the center of a city park, apparently a frequent occurrence during the Croatian summer.

Concert in the park, Zagreb. Taken by Kirstie.
Concert in the park, Zagreb. Taken by Kirstie.

Also, you can find tons of super cool street art throughout!

 

Street art, Zagreb. Taken by Kirstie.
Street art, Zagreb. Taken by Kirstie.

And lastly, make sure you check out the various markets they have available. Outside the train station there was a women selling the smallest and most delicious strawberries I’ve ever had in my life! But they were so good, and SO cheap!

Strawberry stand by the train station in Zagreb. Taken by Kirstie.
Strawberry stand by the train station in Zagreb. Taken by Kirstie.
Tiny strawberries in Zagreb! Taken by Kirstie.
Tiny strawberries in Zagreb! Taken by Kirstie.

[Wikipedia], [Zagreb.com], [Lonely Planet]

Visit to Stari Grad, a 5,000 year-old Croatian town

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Harbor in Stari Grad, Stari Grad. Taken by Kirstie.

As the oldest town in Croatia, one of the oldest in the entire European history and situated on the island of Hvar in the Aegean Sea in the Split-Dalmatia County, Stari Grad (literally “Old Town”) is one of my favorite places I’ve ever been…

Stari Grad is the historical heart of the island of Hvar (not to be confused with the city of Hvar, located on the other side of the island).

Located at the end of a long, protected bay, surrounded by excellent agricultural land has long made Stari Grad an ideal settlement for inhabitants. The area of the town today was first settled by the Neolithic tribes of the Hvar culture, who occupied the island between 3500 and 2500 BC (not too long ago…). They traded with other settlers around the Mediterranean and remains of their existence as well as their successors, the Illyrian tribe, such as pottery and other artifacts have been found in the area.

Stari Grad gets its original name, Faros or Pharos, from the ancient Greeks who formally settled there in 384 BC. The nearby plain was designed and constructed with roads and designated standard fields were divided up. Today, the Stari Grad Plain is considered one of the best-preserved examples of ancient Greek agriculture throughout the Mediterranean and is currently a UNESO World Heritage Site.

Over its long history, Stari Grad has been home to many different groups such as the Romans, the Slavs, the Venetian Republic, the Turks, the Austrian Empire and finally part of the Dalmatian Kingdom, part of the larger political body of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

Walkways in town, Stari Grad. Taken by Kirstie.
Walkways in town, Stari Grad. Taken by Kirstie.
Stari Grad town, Stari Grad. Taken by Kirstie.
Stari Grad town, Stari Grad. Taken by Kirstie.

Visiting the town today, it almost feels as though you’ve stepped back in time. Tourism has become the main income for the town; though not large enough overpower the “authentic” feel. There are still many magnificent archaeological sites that date back to pre-history and classical times. The Stari Grad Museum also displays collection of artifacts from local sites, both land and sea.

Some of the most famous sites include: the Old Town Walls, Greek Settlement, Stari Grad Plain, Roman Villas, Maslinovik (Greek tower in the Stari Grad Plain), and Glavica (Illyrian fort above Stari Grad).

We went during the month of July, when summer was at its hottest point. Warmed by the warm summer sun, but surrounded by a pine tree forest, Stari Grad is one of the few places in Dalmatia that provide a cool, fresh breeze all throughout the year.

The town also has a really nice, slow-paced, relaxed atmosphere. I can imagine its location on the water, the fact that it is an island, perhaps because it is so small (with about 2,000 inhabitants), or maybe it has the inherent wisdom that comes from being over 5,000 years old that makes it that way. Either way, it is a really great place to visit. There is also a small stone platform at the edge of the town where you can swim and the sunset is unbelievable!

Sunset in Stari Grad, Stari Grad. Taken by Kirstie.
Sunset in Stari Grad, Stari Grad. Taken by Kirstie.

There are also some nice little restaurants and cafés in the city center that are open day and night. The town lights up beautifully in the evening, perfect for a stroll along the promenade by the harbor.

Harbor in Stari Grad, Stari Grad. Taken by Kirstie.
Harbor in Stari Grad, Stari Grad. Taken by Kirstie.

To get to Stari Grad, we took the ferry from Split to Ferry Port Stari Grad, which took about two hours. You could walk to the town from the port, or take a bus. We ended up taking the bus because it was super hot out that day. We did find, however, that region didn’t have too much available to book online. We just bought the tickets for the ferry and bus on the spot, which seemed to be the normal procedure.

It has also become popular for residents to turn the historic buildings into accommodation, which means you could end up staying in a really cool place. We, for example, stayed in a castle in the center of town!

View from our castle hostel in Stari Grad! Taken by Kirstie.
View from our castle hostel in Stari Grad! Taken by Kirstie.

[Wikipedia], [Hvar Info]

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